Thursday, 1 April 2010

Cardiff - A city reborn




January 2008... dreary, drizzly, miserable... we decided to go to Cardiff! A strange decision maybe, but we wanted to visit all the capitals in the UK and Cardiff was by far the cheapest option, so soon after Christmas.

We left the coach at the some old run down bus station and realised immediately, that far from owning any immediate capital charm, we could have been in any UK city, in great need of refurbishment. But, determined not to let first impressions dictate, we continued on our way to find our hotel.

Immediately it was clear that Cardiff is a city undergoing a massive facelift, there are cranes and building sites everywhere, somewhat spoiling the charm of the old city, and yet holding promise of a newer, brighter Cardiff to come.

Across the road from the station, you walk into the looming shadow of the Millenuim Stadium, a massive, virtiginous structure that can be seen from most parts of the city and underlining the ideals that the millenium promised; bigger, better and post-modern in its presence. And yet it is beautiful, overlooking and guarding the river in all its multi-million pound splendour. Surrounded by moscaics of the flags of different countries that have played at the stadium (in whatever capacity) reflective of the millenium era of post-nationalism and European rule.




Eventually we found St Mary's street, a busy high street shopping lane, but nowhere could we find the Royal Hotel, where we were supposed to be staying. After wandering up and down St Mary's street several times, suitcases-a -tow, we were beginning to get frustrated and flustered...when we spotted it, a tiny narrow buiding, with a tiny sign indicating that this was the Royal Hotel. We trudged to the entrance, somewhat disappointed with the £140 price tag for a single night stay! However, after being buzzed in (an impressive and comforting security feature, albeit slightly annoying to us smokers) we were greeted in an impressive lobby and shown to a rather swanky room! The hotel, was lovely and comfortable, with impressive city views; which held a certain aromanticist air with the electronic and neon lights of the city, blurred by the drizzling rain and disrupted by the slow, mechanical movements of the construction cranes.

The first place that we ventured out to was suitably, one of the oldest places in the city: Cardiff Castle. The most amazing part of the castle is the Norman part of the castle raised upon the Motte. It is really haunting to step inside where the only light comes from the tiny narrow windows, and you can truly fancy yourself to be part of this era or chivalry - knights and damsels as you make your way to the top of the castle, up uneven brick steps where the stone crumbles beneath one's feet. When at the top, you get a windy greeting (particularly if you go in January!) which is truly reminiscent of medieval Wales, far removed from the comfort and warmth that we have grown used to today. Even more mesmirising is the view from the top, as you look out you can see the more modern neo-gothic structure of the castle, and further out, the modern Cardiff, followed by the post-modern Millenium stadium and cranes with signify Cardiff's 21st century rebirth, in an amazing structural timeline of Welsh architectural development. After spending a couple of hours wandering around the castle, it is fitting to spend the rest of your day in Bute Park, part of the castle greenland, and closely guarded by the terrifying gothic animal statues. It is extremely fitting to spend a drizzly January day exploring the park land and enjoying the scenery as part of a dark and dank past that is fitting to Wales' medieval and modern history.

After spending a day indulging in Cardiff's fascinating past, it is only right to dedicate a day to the city's seemingly bright and impressive future. A day spent at Cardiff bay is a day well spent. It is a beautiful paradox of nature and architecture which suit one another perfectly. As you look out accross the bay, you may be lucky enough (as we were) to witness the pale, low winter sun sparkle on the water's surface, punctuated on your left by a beautiful white wooden building that is the Nordic Church and tea room where Roald Dahl was baptised, and on your right by the hugely practical waterfront promenade, filled with cafes, amusements and museums which mean that you really could spend an entire day here. Also worth a visit are the millenium centre with its famous golden, lettered face; and the water tower called Roald Dhal Plass - a truly beautiful area which contrasts wonderfully with the old town and really does secure Cardiff as a city reborn.