Madrid: The City Never Sleeps.

Madrid is one of those European Cities, which oozes culture and sophistication and yet is often forgotten about when one considers iconic European destinations. True, it is not Paris, Amsterdam or even Barcelona...but this fact in itself makes Madrid a must. The entire city is not, like others, entirely concerned with tourism, which creates a real sense of authenticity. And whilst Madrid is by no means behind as a post-modern metropolis, one still feels that one is getting a true taste of Spain when visiting, and not some regurgiated British tourist trap (selling chicken nuggets and pond water tea in every cafe!) which you get in other areas of Spain. In short if you wish to taste Spanish culture visit Madrid, and not the Costas or Balearics.


In Madrid, everyone speaks (believe it or not) Spanish! So it's worth learning a few polite phrases before you go. Let's leave behind this old fashioned view that everyone in the world should speak English and embrace the beauties of different European tounges (many of which were around way before modern day English!) It feels so much more authentic and mediterranean to visit a resturant or cafe and hear the beautiful, relaxed Spanish rolling off the tongues of the locals. The relaxed atmosphere of the cafe culture in Spain is another huge positive. Unlike in London or Paris, you can walk into a resturant, without a reservation and relax with tapas and a beer for anything up to an hour before a table becomes available, however because everything is open so much later and life is so much slower, this is far from a cause of frustration, and in fact becomes a social part of the evening in itself! It is such a refreshing feeling, not to feel rushed! eating is a really social and integral past time to the Spanish, and something that plays a major part in the evening's entertainment, rather than a formal precursor (or drunken conclusion!)


 One thing to bear in mind is that locals in Madrid don't tend to go out until much later in the evening, and may not eat their evening meal until 10pm, after which they will go to bars and clubs. This means that entertainment in general runs much later, with many clubs not even opening until 12am! Again, this reflects the much more relaxed lifestyle of the Spaniards, and I would encourage anyone visiting to really embrace this. (Besides, if you stay in the centre of Madrid, like we did, you won't get any sleep until the early hours anyway, so you might as well make the most of it!)


A great place to start when you first arrive in Madrid is the Jardines Botanico. A lovely place to spend an hour or two, strolling through the beautiful greenery, basking in the Spanish sunshine, and perhaps even learning a thing or two along the way. It is a great place to start whilst trying to get your bearings, as it is an open and relaxed attraction, there is no pressure to get straight into touristy activity. One can simply stroll through and decide on the itinery for the day/s ahead or merely catch your breath after travelling. Furthermore, the gardens hold quite a central position in terms of the city's attractions, sitting adjacent to the Museo Del Prado, and in between Plaza Mayor and Retiro Parque. In this sense it is a great reference point (i thought of it as the 'middle' of our intended destinations.) however, without over complicating tings too much, it is actually an attraction well worth visiting!

After spending an hour in this manner, I suggest coming out onto the beautiful tree-lined shady promenade that is Paseo Del Prado, and heading right towards the Congresso De Los Diputados, a very large and grand congress building which is guarded by Police and massed by a proud red and yellow flag! I think that tours of the congress building are available, however, we didn't have the time to go inside, so we just spent a few moments admiring it's grandeur from the outside.

A fantastic place to spend a lazy afternoon in Madrid is the wonderfully vibrant Plaza Mayor. A square filled with cafes, bars and bistros. Relax with a bottle of beer and some tapas.  A great place to just sit for a few hours and people watch. Let the buskers entertain you while the waiters bring out your drinks and charm you into spending more than you probably should! That leads me onto my word of warning...as a tourism hotspot, the bars and cafes in Plaza Mayor have a habit of charging much more than might be considered reasonable for their services. Expect to pay 7 or 8 euros for a bottle of beer/ glass of wine, and also expect the buskers to actively 'ask' for payment for their 'services'. I found, however, that being prepared for such things helps and certainly wouldn't avoid the place for this reason...it really is Madrid's cultural hub and definately worth a visit, even if it's just a stop off with a sandwich, and a chance to take in the wonderfully painted buildings.

Retiro Parque is another fantastic place to spend a couple of hours whilst in Madrid. A huge park that dominates the centre of the city is a wonderful pace to stroll and get away from the hustle and bustle of the metropolis. A good city is always balanced with a good mixture of green spaces and retiro parque certainly creates that balance. With the famous and beautiful statue sitting grandly in the centre of the lake, its a wonderful place to go for a picnic and you can even hire a pedalo for an hour or so to really take it all in. I always think of the city parks as being the 'feminine' section of the city, the natural, irrational and beautiful areas that contradict with the 'masculine' rationality and 'phallic' presence of the built-up city. Somwhere that you can wander rather than walking in straight, predetermind lines. Whilst I love city breaks, I also find myself feeling suffocated after a while, and the parks offer the regained sense of freedom, somewhere unregimented where you can stretch out, breathe deeply and rejuvenate.

There are plenty of wonderful museums to visit in Madrid, especially for art lovers. My favourite is the Museo del Prado a beautiful, grand old building which houses a wonderful collection of classic and contemporary art and often holds exhibitions from the Spanish greats such as Goya and Picasso. Again, you have to pay to access the museums, but it's definitely worth it to spend a few hours admiring the wonderful collections available.

Cardiff - A city reborn

January 2008... dreary, drizzly, miserable... we decided to go to Cardiff! A strange decision maybe, but we wanted to visit all the capitals in the UK and Cardiff was by far the cheapest option, so soon after Christmas.

We left the coach at the some old run down bus station and realised immediately, that far from owning any immediate capital charm, we could have been in any UK city, in great need of refurbishment. But, determined not to let first impressions dictate, we continued on our way to find our hotel.

Immediately it was clear that Cardiff is a city undergoing a massive facelift, there are cranes and building sites everywhere, somewhat spoiling the charm of the old city, and yet holding promise of a newer, brighter Cardiff to come.

Across the road from the station, you walk into the looming shadow of the Millenuim Stadium, a massive, virtiginous structure that can be seen from most parts of the city and underlining the ideals that the millenium promised; bigger, better and post-modern in its presence. And yet it is beautiful, overlooking and guarding the river in all its multi-million pound splendour. Surrounded by moscaics of the flags of different countries that have played at the stadium (in whatever capacity) reflective of the millenium era of post-nationalism and European rule.

Eventually we found St Mary's street, a busy high street shopping lane, but nowhere could we find the Royal Hotel, where we were supposed to be staying. After wandering up and down St Mary's street several times, suitcases-a -tow, we were beginning to get frustrated and flustered...when we spotted it, a tiny narrow buiding, with a tiny sign indicating that this was the Royal Hotel. We trudged to the entrance, somewhat disappointed with the £140 price tag for a single night stay! However, after being buzzed in (an impressive and comforting security feature, albeit slightly annoying to us smokers) we were greeted in an impressive lobby and shown to a rather swanky room! The hotel, was lovely and comfortable, with impressive city views; which held a certain aromanticist air with the electronic and neon lights of the city, blurred by the drizzling rain and disrupted by the slow, mechanical movements of the construction cranes.

The first place that we ventured out to was suitably, one of the oldest places in the city: Cardiff Castle. The most amazing part of the castle is the Norman part of the castle raised upon the Motte. It is really haunting to step inside where the only light comes from the tiny narrow windows, and you can truly fancy yourself to be part of this era or chivalry - knights and damsels as you make your way to the top of the castle, up uneven brick steps where the stone crumbles beneath one's feet. When at the top, you get a windy greeting (particularly if you go in January!) which is truly reminiscent of medieval Wales, far removed from the comfort and warmth that we have grown used to today. Even more mesmirising is the view from the top, as you look out you can see the more modern neo-gothic structure of the castle, and further out, the modern Cardiff, followed by the post-modern Millenium stadium and cranes with signify Cardiff's 21st century rebirth, in an amazing structural timeline of Welsh architectural development. After spending a couple of hours wandering around the castle, it is fitting to spend the rest of your day in Bute Park, part of the castle greenland, and closely guarded by the terrifying gothic animal statues. It is extremely fitting to spend a drizzly January day exploring the park land and enjoying the scenery as part of a dark and dank past that is fitting to Wales' medieval and modern history.

After spending a day indulging in Cardiff's fascinating past, it is only right to dedicate a day to the city's seemingly bright and impressive future. A day spent at Cardiff bay is a day well spent. It is a beautiful paradox of nature and architecture which suit one another perfectly. As you look out accross the bay, you may be lucky enough (as we were) to witness the pale, low winter sun sparkle on the water's surface, punctuated on your left by a beautiful white wooden building that is the Nordic Church and tea room where Roald Dahl was baptised, and on your right by the hugely practical waterfront promenade, filled with cafes, amusements and museums which mean that you really could spend an entire day here. Also worth a visit are the millenium centre with its famous golden, lettered face; and the water tower called Roald Dhal Plass - a truly beautiful area which contrasts wonderfully with the old town and really does secure Cardiff as a city reborn.

"When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London, all that life can afford." (Samuel Johnson)

Stepping off the coach at Victoria station, we were met by a grey, foggy, gloom. It was the end of August 2007, supposedly the height of summer, and yet... it was perfect! There couldn't have been a more perfect setting for a weekend break in London, the city of shadows, of eternal darkness. Immediately the gloom creeps around you, you're surrounded, engulfed; and yet it feels right, it feels as if this is how it should be, as if you have just stepped into the great mind of Dickens:

" There was a faint glimmering of the coming day in the sky; but it rather aggravated than relieved the gloom of the scene, the sobre light only serving to pale that which the street lights afforded, without shedding any warmer or brighter tints upon the wet housetops and dreary streets." (Oliver Twist; p134)

Many people feel that the dark, grim atmosphere of London is off putting and ill suited to a modern metropolis. However one only has to consider the history of this great city; Boadicea who burned London to the ground leaving the modern city's foundations upon a black layer of ash, the Great Plague of 1665 and Great Fire of 1666, the Industrial Revolution, Jack the Ripper, The Blitz! (to name but a few). Throughout history, London has been based upon this symbolic drear and blackness ... it is its essence, London's very core is a black foggy gloom. To truly get a feel of London and what it represents, one must appreciate the engulfing shadows and come to the realisation... This is London!

You are immediately greeted by London's iconic symbols, the roaring traffic, intercepted at regualr intervals by the big red buses, grand Victorian and Edwardian buildings that seem simply too huge to be inhabitable, grimy faced beggars with hands outstretched (never underestimate the ability of a London beggar to recognise a tourist upon a glance!) And the people... London is such an amazing place to people watch, it is such a melting pot of diversity; from the suited man, armed with briefcase, head down, walking a straight purposeful route; to the flaneur, people who appear to be walking aimlessly through the city, no purpose or direction, just wandering up and down city streets and alleyways going wherever the veins of the city decide to take them; and finally the tourists, millions of people from all over the world visit London every year. These of course are easily noticeable, huge spread out maps trying to make sense of the labrynthine nature of the capital, camera hanging from the neck, ready to capture the famous monuments photographed an infinite number of times before, and yet each moment captured becomes unique to the eye of the beholder, a specific moment in time that cannot be replicated, ever. All of this was noted and ingrained in my mind during the short walk from Victoria station to St Georges Street where our chosen hotel was situated...

South Bank...
Due to our limited time in the capital, we decided to devote an entire day to the South Bank, walking from the Houses of Parliament- all the way to Tower Bridge, taking in all the sights in between.

First we encountered Tate Britain, a beautiful pillared building encompassing British art all the way back to the sixteenth century. Its a wonderful place to spend an hour (easily more when not on a tight schedule), just wandering through the galleries admiring the massive collection ... and best of all, entry is free! (although donations can be made).

As you continue to walk along the river it is difficult not to be drawn to the stunning cityscape that runs alongside the Thames, it is immediately easy to see why London holds such an important place within world finance and economy. Huge buildingd dominate the skyline and the formality of it all can be somewhat daunting to a first time visitor. It is however, this very dominating aspect of London that makes it so very attractive to millions every year, London culture is purposeful, directed and rational, and this is very much reflected in the layout and architecture within.

As you continue to walk along the river, your eyes began to be magnetically drawn away from the huge imposing cityscape... instead they become fixed on the glittering, golden spires of the Houses of Parliament, such iconic buildings and yet their magnificence cannot be truly felt until you are standing beneath them looking up... It is then that you come to realise your central postion in one of the most influential metropolises in the world. You could stand for hours just gazing at the tiny intricacies that make up these buildings... that is until you are rudely awakedned by the 'dong' of Big Ben, again reminding you where you are, keeping London moving on time for hundreds of years. All cities have distinctive views and symbolic buildings, but London is the only city that springs to mind that has an unmistakeable sound, the chimes of Big Ben, a continuum in the very move in time that it represents unceasingly. As you continue round onto Westminster Bridge you can get a fantastic view of Big Ben with the perfectly suited backdrop of a cloudy London sky, another iconic image and perfect photograph opportunity.

The city of paradoxes continues to impress as you continue towards the South Bank... from the old grandeur of the Houses of Parliament, you are suddenly greeted with the Post Modern beauty of the London Eye. This, another postcard symbol of London in modern years, represents the modernity of this historic city, providing a bemusing juxtaposition with the old city represented by Westminster, and yet again despite its strangeness and seeming unsuitability, fits perfectly with one's admiration of London. This aptly named piece of engineering really does represent the eye of the city, fitting perfectly with Ackroyd's body analogy. From the top of the eye, one is met with the most spectacular views accross the whole of the city, views that can only really be appreciated from such a dizzying height.

Next you notice the surrealist statues by the artist Salvador Dali, which line up against the river and make interesting viewing as you pass. Especially fascinating is the sculpture of Dali's famous piece 'The Persistance of Memory' a particularly apt piece in such a historically documented city.

A necessary detour within this part of the trip is to walk onto Jubilee Bridge and take a look back at the Houses of Parliament and the London Eye, a fantastic view, where you can truly appreciate the paradox between old and new. This is the point from which many of the famous photographs of London's most iconic buildings are taken, and when standing there with the rushing Thames beneath you, it is easy to see why.

Other interesting sights such as the sheltered skateboarding area, covered in colourful graffitti make for a surprisingly pleasing sight, where you can sit and watch the skaters performing their tricks. Also look out for the impressive street performers in this area, when we visited we were graced with a performance by a group of very talented break dancers and the terrifyingly realistic human statues. Finally within this area are Jubilee Gardens a nice place for a rest to take in and contemplate the massive array of sights already seen in such a small area of the city.

The Tate Modern is a great place for art lovers looking for something different. Its modern collection is quite different from what most of the other galleries have to offer, and there are often weird and wonderful exhibitions being held to capture the thriving imagination that one gains when in London. Held within an old power station, it is clear from the outside that Tate modern is different, far from the classicist design of Tate Britain, this gallery is held within quite an ugly, industrial shell of a building, however, this is part of its charm, afterall beauty within he post-modern era is completely different to what was considered beautiful in the past. The industrialised setting of the Tate Modern renders the modern art within, only more fitting the modern city. The views from the top towards the Millenium Bridge and St Paul's cathederal are also worth a look for yet another facinating perspective of the juxtaposing old and new architecture.

As you walk accross the Millenium Bridge, the looming mass of the dome of St Pauls casts a massive shadow accross the cathederal promenade. The symbolism here is unmissable, another reason for the darkening of London, the shadows reminding one of a mysterious and yet facinating past. The building itself is more than impressive, however as you step into the cool shadow cast by St Paul's you are taken back to a time before modern enlightenment giving the building a certain quality which represents far more than simply bricks and mortar.

Next you pass Shakespeare's Globe Theatre a reconstruction of the original, and very impressive at that. A tour within takes right back to the Shakespeare's day and what it would have been like to watch an original play directed by the bard himself. Also gives an interesting insight into the social politics of the day with the theatre seating being arranged in tiers by social class.

A quirky little feature upon the Southbank is 'The Anchor' pub, a charming little place with crooked flooring reminiscent of its early modern origins. The pub is so old in fact, that Samuel Pepys was thought to have sat within watching the fire of London and recording his thoughts within his famous diary. A lovely place to stop for a drink as well as have a wander, admiring its character and charm.



After a refreshing drink and much needed rest, you exit the dark and mysterious public house and become bewildered by post-enlightenment, post-modern brightness of the outside, yet another reminder of the binary opposites which continue to shock and enthrall. It is now that one truly begins to appreciate the sheer size and significance of tower bridge, its two massive towers providing a fitting representation of this city of doubles and opposition. Feeling one's stomach lurch with vertigo as it opens it's massive jaws to allow yet another ship to pass down the city's osophagus, and finally the small thrill that one experiences when walking accross the huge crevice that separates the bridge down the middle, excitably aware that one glich in engineering could set the jaws to open when you are still not safely accross... Of course you make it, but the morbid curiosity is not dissaparated, because their looming above you in all its gory glory is the Tower of London, a stark reminder of the royal blood that has quite literally been spilled to make Britain Great. Traitor's Gate which leads straight into the dungeons of this great imposing body of architecture, which has a real sense of forboding and 'no return' about it, which again sets the senses racing, a strange sense of magnetised disgust, that simultaneously makes you want to look away and yet stops you from doing so!.

After an entire day walking along the vein of London that is the Thames, there is no better way back than a river cruise. A chance to relax and reflect on all the sights and what they represent as you glide past them for a second time.

It seems then that Samuel Johnson was right, London is a life in itself, a metaphorical body of exploration, corrupted and aged by thousands of years of blackened dust and ashes and yet at the same time it is continually being reborn, as a brand new, modern and worldly relevant metropolis... In my opinion London embodies paradox it is at the same time, a home and a world completely foreign and alien, old and new, rich and poor, black and white, male and female, and as unsettling as this may seem, one can't help but be transfixed and enamoured with this city...London.

Passion...

My name is Laura and I am a twenty one year old English graduate and trainee teacher from Derby. The majority of my writing on this page will be based on my first love ... the heart wrenching, soul intensifying, mind blowing world of travel! I just can't get enough of it, whenever I have a spare penny it goes in the holiday pot, a spare minute is spent browsing for online deals:

I am by no means an expert, but I am an absolute travel freak ... I love sun holidays, city breaks, rainy weekends in England's National Parks; dark, dreary and yet thrilling days out in Britain's industrial cities. And to top it all off, when I get back and the holiday snaps have been worn thin by constant flicking, admiring and showing off ... I like to write about them!